“The loveliest region of Italy: a stunning orgy of colors, scents, and lights… a great delight” — Sigmund Freud

Sicily is a kaleidoscope of culture, food and earthly pleasures; from the fantastically decorative Arab domes to the Baroque palazzos, the bustling street food markets of Palermo to the sleepy villages stuck in time, the Roman ruins surrounded by wheat fields to the idyllic untouched beaches. The biggest island in the meditteranean is also home to the largest active volcano on the continent, the mythical Mount Etna. It’s been conquered by the Spaniards, the Greeks, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans and more, making Sicily a one of a kind, autonomous region of Italy where inhabitants still keep their own dialect alive, (although recently declared an endangered language by UNESCO).

Getting Around

Public transport in Sicily isn’t the most reliable, so we would recommend renting a car. Hire your ride from Sixt, which is decently priced and will have smaller queues upon arrival. The principle airports are Catania in the East and Palermo in the West. If you have a weekend, you’ll want to choose one side of the island to explore, whereas a week’s stay in Sicily would be plenty to discover both East and West and in between. You can get from side to side in around 3 and a half hours and from to bottom in around 2 and a half. We would suggest having a comfortable base to relax and bathe in the Sicilian
sun, and then use your car to take day trips around the island.

Western Sicily

The Elysian Fields of Rural Sicily

Where to Stay

Hotel Susafa is nestled away deep inside the Sicilian countryside. The restored farmhouse is like a spiritual retreat. It’s a place to soak in simple, wholesome pleasures – dip your toes in the pool, read a book and have a picnic on the grass under the trees, pick fruits and vegetables from the garden and make them into a Sicilian delicacy at one of the cooking courses. The hotel is also excellently situated in the middle of the island making it ideal for day trips to nearby historic sites and sleepy villages.

The Ghost Town of Gangi

An hour’s drive from the Susafa domain is the small medieval village in the Madonie Mountains which has consistently been called the most beautiful village in Italy, thanks to its perfect views of Mount Etna in the distance, tiny streets, tower bells and historical houses. It also made the headlines not so long ago after many of its abandoned homes were on sale for a mere euro…

Gangi has its number of churches, but the Mother Church of San Nicolò di Bari is the most special of all. Once you walk in, you will find a white interior speckled with soft blue, pink and gold ornamentation, with frescoes and sculptures lining the walls. The Judgement Day image by Giuseppe Salerno and wooden Baroque sculptures by Filippo Quattrocchi – both of which were local artists – are most revered by the community, but the main attraction is what’s hiding below. The “a Fossa di Parrini”, otherwise known as the “tomb of the dead priests” is one of a kind, and has even been documented by the surreal artist, M C Escher. In the crypt downstairs, you’ll find hundreds of mummified priests, dating back to the 18th century. Many of them stand wearing their best clothes in their own little compartments in the walls, accompanied by a few words about their lives written by a local poet, and in the room next door, you can see where the bodies were dried, drained, and embalmed. And if that’s not enough mummy for your Sicily trip, you can also visit the Capuchin Catacombs of Palermo.

Ancient Artistry

One and a half hours away from Susafa, is the wondrous city of Agrigento. It was once a nuclei of Ancient Greece, and today, it’s home to some of the largest and best preserved ancient Greek temples in the world; much of the historic topography is still yet to be excavated. Marvel at the surviving sandstone ruins in the Valley of Temples, and then walk through the 2,000 year old Garden of Kolymbethra, where the sweet smells wafting from the orange trees and jasmine flowers curl around you. If you’re in town at the beginning of February, join in the festivities of the Almond Blossom Festival, which embraces the arrival of spring and friendship among cultures, with colourful folk parades set in the Valley of Temples.

To the Beach!

Cefalu is the perfect little coastal village to stay in. The ancient fishing port is postcard perfect, with its tiny cobblestone streets, charming restaurants tucked away in the side streets and crystal clear water, ideal for snorkeling right off the stone pier. Climb up the steps to the top of the town to see panoramic views that stretch as far as Palermo.

Hotel Le Calette is an old fashioned, family run seaside hotel, set on a cliff away from the hustle and bustle, among unspoilt nature and idyllic views. The mediterranean white stone hotel, with splashes of colourful flowers and palm trees, has its own restaurants, pool and private beaches but the local town has plenty of options. Make sure to get a room facing the majestic sea so you can watch the sun rise as you wake up

Sicily is one of those parts of the world where strict rules don’t really apply. Wherever you go by the seaside, just find your way to the docks and enquire about self-driving motor boats. Pack a picnic, your sunscreen and start exploring the coast at your own speed. There really is no excuse to get on one
of those packed tourist boats. Find Cefalu’s local boat rental service just below the Calette hotel.

A Day in Palermo

If you’re eager to get straight to the beach or to the rolling hills of the Siciliancountryside, there’s always the option of staying just one night in Palermo or flying in early to get a quick taste of the city before hitting the road to your hotel in the afternoon. The capital of Sicily, Palermo, is over 2, 700 years old.
Like the rest of the island, it’s had a long, diverse and eventful history, which clings onto monuments that survived bombings from the Second World War. It’s also an absolute foodie heaven; it earned the title of Europe’s street food capital in 2015.

Friendly Feasting

Inside the former workshop of Renaissance sculptor, Antonello Gagini, who is said to have helped Michelangelo on the tomb of Pope Julius II, you will find Gagini Social Restaurant. Here you’ll find experimental, creative food, which you can eat on the communal table while sharing moments with new
friends from all over the world. The first social restaurant of the city stays true to its cultural heritage as the furniture is crafted by artists and there is artwork on the walls that brighten up the old 16th century stone walls.

Street Food Surprises

Palermo is home to some of the oldest markets in Sicily, such as Ballarò, which is closer to a bazaar that you would find in North Africa. Walk through the colourful assortment of fruits and vegetables; pick from the voluptuous heaving tomatoes, speckled peaches, fresh iridescent fish and spikey urchins. Be prepared for a rough around the edges sensorial experiences, with lots of noise and shouting, curious smells and busy paths with locals squeezing through on their motors. This is your best opportunity to try some local Sicilian street food; a melange of fresh mainland Italian food and pungent spices from the Arabic world. Try whatever catches your eye and watch your bag.

The Palermo Food Bucket List

ARANCINI: crispy, deep fried creamy rice balls, often filled with a savoury
surprise in the centre

• PANELLE: chickpea fritters famously found in the food markets
• PASTA ALLA NORMA: pasta dish made with aubergine, ricotta and basil
• SFINCIONE: Sicilian pizza, which is more of a thick focaccia with toppings
  such as tomatoes, anchovies and cheese
• CASSATA: sponge cake soaked with fruit liqueur or juice, topped with
  sweet ricotta and candied fruit.
• GRANITA: an iced dessert that’s not quite ice cream, but not quite sorbet

A Night at the Opera

Palermo is also home to the momentous Teatro Massimo; the largest opera house in the whole of Italy. Take a tour of the sumptuous gold coloured interior, complemented by its red velvet curtains and chairs, marble, and ethereal pièce de resistance painting on the ceiling. Have your moment in the royal box, explore backstage, see the views of the city on the rooftop and try not to cross paths with the ghost that haunts the theatre. Why not even buy a ticket to a performance? Teatro Massimo is famous for its acoustics, but do remember that it’s from the 19th century, so can get quite hot in the summer

Small Museums

TORRE PIRAJNO PALACE

Hidden away in a first floor apartment in the Torre Pirajno Palace, you will find the Museo della Maioliche; one of the most magnificent collections of glazed ceramic tiles, mostly from Sicily and Campania. Within the private family home, you can walk through eight rooms flooded with colourful, geometric majolica tiles, which are carefully arranged by geography and date. Make sure to book in advance as there are limited spaces and limited times, when you’ll be taken on a tour by one of the passionate staff, who will tell you that there are over 5, 000 pieces in the ever growing collection. If you can’t get enough of your mini tour, there is also a bed and breakfast upstairs.

OPERA DEI PUPI (PUPPET OPERA)

Where art is ingrained in Sicilian heritage. The puppets made of wood are intricately painted, with an eye for detail from the emotive faces and blinking eyes, the embellished shiny armour of soldiers, to the pearly necklaces worn by queens. The colourful scenes in the backdrops are enough to be marvelled at alone. The puppet theatres of Sicily were family run and passed on through generations; their sets and marionnettes were made by specialised craftsmen. Since the post war economic boom of the 50s however, the practice has been dwindling and today, there are still troupes that hold onto the artform, with help from UNESCO who gave the Opera dei Pupi an Intangible Cultural Heritage status. If you want to go and see opera dei pupi for yourself, we would suggest going to Figli d’Arte Cuticchio and Teatro dei
Pupi famiglia Argento. At the Museo internazionale delle marionette Antonio Pasqualino you can also learn about the history of Sicilian puppet theatre, and find workshops and summer shows.

PALAZZO MIRTO

To see an almost untouched home of the 19th century Sicilian aristocracy, make your way to the Palazzo Mirto. For over four centuries, it was home to the noble Filangeris, who were one of the most famous families in the whole of Southern Italy. This is not a perfectly manicured palazzo – it’s a veritable
former residence full of necessities, collectibles and a mish-mash of styles yet it holds an undeniable golden era opulence. Walk through the rooms whose walls are lined with silk wallpaper and meticulous wall tapestries. The painted ceilings tell their own stories and the revered murano glass chandeliers hang heavy below. Dotted around you’ll see French porcelain and clocks, Valesquez paintings and photographs of family members and their royal acquaintances. Look into the courtyard and find the extravagant Rococo fountain made with seashells. Other notable points of interest are the stables, kitchen, Chinese Salon, Diana Lounge and Smoking Salon.

Around Palermo

Coppola’s Real-Life Corleone

This little town of Corleone is infamous for its connection to the Mafia, otherwise known as the Cosa Nostra in the region, especially as many of its famous members were born here. This sinister history shouldn’t deter you from visiting though, as it is in fact a quiet and peaceful village, which is moving further and further away from its dark past. For a crash-course on the history of the mafia and their workings, go on a guided tour of the anti-mafia museum, CIDMA. Don’t expect cliché gimmicks like horse heads and mob movie stereotypes, but rather, a group of individuals seeking to de-romanticise the image of the mafia, and an abundant collection of archives. Bare in mind that there is some scary stuff here.

Wander through the Sicilian Village in a Cave, Frozen in Time

In the province of Trapani, there’s a portal through time about eighty meters high and seventy meters deep. Nestled inside the natural opening of two mountain peaks, lies a tiny village, consisting of quaint earth-colored houses, a chapel, stables, workshops and one cobbled main street. The village “piazza” of Grotta Mangiapane is located at the mouth of the cave where the hens and geese live in their coops and the garlic dries in the sun. The cave is named after the family who settled and lived here until the 1950s, farming in the opposite field and fishing in the sea no more than 500 meters from their doorstep. They were apparently known for making a mean ricotta cheese and delicious cassata. There are very few records about the cave and village life here, although an Italian explorer visited in the 1870s, and he described it as an untroubled place, “far from the noise of our cities”, where he was warmly welcomed by the extended Mangiapane family. After a period of abandonment, the village and its houses have been restored by local enthusiasts with the help of one of the last surviving members of the Mangiapane family, who ensures everything remains just as it was a century ago. Today it’s a tiny open air living museum, that allows visitors to step back in time and walk through the daily lives of the villagers, looking inside their bedrooms, touching the furniture and learning to use historical
farm tools to bring lost trades briefly back to life. But don’t expect the Sicilian version of a “Far West” theme town. This is not Disneyland. This is an authentic family-run operation helped along by the local cultural association, the sort of off-beat gem that travellers only stumble upon by accident.

The local folks running the little museum won’t speak any English and you can’t count on a human presence to welcome you every day of the week. Outside of the Christmas season when a nativity scene is reenacted here, the tourism office doesn’t send people their way unless you enquire. There’s
a panel at the entrance of the cave with some historical information in English however, and when they’re open for business, the fee is just 3 euros. It’ll be worth every cent.

Come for the Salt, Stay for the Sunset

At the Salt Museum on the western tip of the island, you’ll be able to see salt being extracted using methods that date back centuries. Early in the morning the flamingos prance around in the water, and in the afternoon sunset, the most extraordinary colours reflect on the salt evaporation ponds while the light forms a silhouette of the charming 600 year old windmill. Take a tour and a boat around the small islands, and to top it off, have an apero in the on site restaurant

Eastern Sicily

Riding Around Mount Etna

Last Train to Sicily

Take a ride on the Circumetnea Railway and you’ll be traveling on the same rickety tracks that were laid down in 1895 for the 19th century steam trains of Sicily. For nearly 130 years, this little-known old railway has been taking travellers on a one-of-a-kind journey from the seaside towns of Catania to Riposto via one heck of a scenic route around the snow-capped Mount Etna.

In 1937, under Mussolini’s rule, the steam trains were replaced with the more efficient Fiat ALn 56 motor coaches, better known as the Littorine. The handsome art deco train cars chugged to altitudes of 1,000 meters and stopped at small villages along the way. In the 1980s, however, the Littorine went into retirement and disappeared from the Italian railways entirely. Most of them were sent to the junkyard for destruction, but on the island of Sicily, each summer, two of these rescued 1930s trains come out of hiding for what could be their last ride around Mount Etna. The FCE (Ferrovia Circumetnea railway) run special summer excursions on the vintage Littorine trains, with lunch and visits to various sights included. Information is supposed to be on the FCE’s official site, but just like the trains and most things in Sicily, this website hasn’t kept up with the times and it’s a little difficult to navigate or find any information in English, so it’s best to get in touch with the local Sicilian tourist office or check with your
hotel’s concierge to make enquiries and act as a translator. Bear in mind that the FCE is a small and private railroad that has no association with the Italian National Railway, so the best knowledge is most likely to be found locally. Think of it like tourism back in the day; don’t expect it to be easy to plan but if you take the time, it promises to be a very special and off-beat travel experience through time. Note: Regular FCE trains around Mount Etna run all year round (and they’re still relatively vintage in comparison to modern train cars, most are 1950s era)

The Godfather Bar, Still Open

Remember that scene where Michael Corleone was sitting on the shady terrace of a local Sicilian bar after a day of hunting with his bodyguards in the mountains? He began to enquire with the bar owner about a beautiful girl he had seen by the roadside. The man quickly realised that Michael was
describing his own daughter and stormed off back into the bar, unaware of exactly who he had just snubbed. Mr. Corleone’s bodyguards returned with the newly enlightened bartender and he begrudgingly agreed to a meeting where he would no doubt be swayed to give his daughter’s hand in marriage to the Godfather– an offer he can’t refuse! Bar Vitelli in Savoca, a quiet town in the Province of Messina, was the location for the scene in Francis Ford Coppola‘s The Godfather. Today, it’s still a functioning establishment and nothing has changed at the bar since the movie’s release in 1972. It’s no surprise that the coffee and cannoli are highly rated here.

If you want to go on a little Godfather film trail, you can also visit the nearby village Forza d’Agrò, which was also used as a location, and is about a 20 minute drive away.

Where to Stay

Monaci delle Terre Nere is set on the slopes of Mount Etna, 500m above sea level, in a former winery surrounded by vineyards and vivacious scenery. The boutique hotel is out of the way, yet not so isolated, so a myriad of day trips are perfectly manageable. Wander around the large estate, go horse
riding or cycling, organise a private candlelit dinner for you and your loved one on the terrace, get a birds eye view of Sicily by helicopter and end your day with a recharging yoga session. If you’re up for a day trip to the northern coast of the island, the ever evolving tongues of sand (linguetta di sabbia) of the Marinello Lakes are home to unspoiled environments, sandy beaches and sights of famous mythical stories. The Grotta di Donna Villa is filled with alluring stalactites and stalagmites. The cave set on a cliff overlooking the sea, was home to an enchantress with an insatiable appetite. She lured sailors into her enclosure using her heavenly voice and devoured them.

Down the Ionian Coast

Simple Pleasures of Syracuse

Syracuse was once considered the greatest and most beautiful Greek city of them all. A forty minute drive south is Noto, the Baroque capital of Sicily, best visited at sunset when the sandstone churches turn orange in the evening light. It was built for the nobility after a big earthquake, but was never quite finished… Another 20 minutes further south and you’ll find a great spot to pitch a parasol at Calamosche Beach. Keep going down the Ionian coast, passing rows of tomato plants and vast vineyards, towards Pachino, a small wine town.

Where to Stay

Hotel Henry’s House is a perfectly located hotel overlooking the Gulf of Ortigia. This small hotel, which is so tastefully quaint, is furnished with an eclectic collection of one of a kind pieces of Sicilian antique furniture and flooring, colourful paintings, and sculptures and ceramic tiles. Not only will the interior make you slightly envious, but the views of the water from the terrace under the vine leaves will leave you gobsmacked, especially at sunset. The generous breakfast will certainly keep you satisfied too.

Oh just a Phallic Bar in a Quaint Sicilian Town

Right on the outskirts of the hidden romantic town of Taormina, known for its turquoise beaches, quaint shops, and views of Mount Etna, lies a curious and unsuspecting restaurant known as Bar Turrisi. The locals will tell you only that it’s the “world’s strangest” or “most interesting” bar– and a must-see when in Taormina. Up the stairs and past the beautiful ocean view, guests are struck with statues, candle holders, centrepieces that are shaped like… male genitalia. Everything and anything, from the sculptures, mirrors
and lamps to the chair arms, are massive private parts. They’re stuffed in every nook and cranny of the place and they become more and more apparent with each step you take and the closer you look. The bar, famous for its almond wine, was passed down many generations and finally into the hands
of Peppino, who decided to refurbish the bar with his wife in 1975. Having had no real defining characteristic, the couple thought of what represented them most– their five sons– and so, just like that, the penis became the defining symbol of Bar Turrisi.

Al Fresco Drama

When in Taormina, stop by the Teatro Antico di Taormina; an ancient theatrebuilt by the Greeks for their dramatic plays and musicals, and later expanded by the Romans for gladiator battles and games. The theatre looks upon spectacular views and even today, you can watch performances there, such as music concerts. The best way to avoid the crowds is to go early, and to visit The Odeon, another ancient theatre right next door, which has even more events throughout the year.

Sicily – famous for its chocolate?

During the 16th century, the Spanish rulers of Sicily brought cocoa beans from Mexico along with ancient Aztec methods of producing chocolate, otherwise known as “xocoàtl”, to a little town called Modica, 25 minutes inland from the Ionian coast. This distinct recipe uses minimal ingredients sugar, cocoa and spices – and the process involves grounding the ingredients into a paste without heating them over 45 degrees on a metate, which is a kind of pestle and mortar made out of stone. The result is a bitter,
yet delicious, dark chocolate with crunchy sugar crystals and lots of antioxidants. In fact, this chocolate was originally used to enhance savoury dishes and sugar was only added later to suit local taste. There are rumours that this Modican chocolate can help shed the pounds, and that it’s a natural aphrodisiac. You’ll leave this place a chocolate connoisseur.

Antica Dolceria Bonajuto is an iconic establishment dedicated to chocolate in Modica. The family run chocolate shop and factory goes back 6 generations, and it’s the oldest in town. Take a tour behind the scenes and witness how these sweet treats are made and then pick your favourite flavours in their
chocolate apothecary, where you’ll see a tempting spread on old wooden counters. Here, you can also find chocolate beer, liquor, cakes and pastries such as mpanatigghi and their famous indulgently sized cannoli.

If you want to take a seat and keep feeding your insatiable sweet tooth, Caffè dell’Arte is the place to go. Here, you’ll be absolutely spoilt for choice. Pick from the hot chocolate, granita, cannoli, cremolata, and nucatoli alongside a coffee.

Right in front of the Caffè dell’Arte, is the tiny Chocolate Museum hidden in the Palazzo della Cultura. Here, you can find novelties such as a three-dimensional chocolate map of Italy with its monuments included.

Ever heard of Chocomodica? Modica’s yearly chocolate festival? Each December, on the weekend of the Immaculate Conception, the town comes alive with events such as music, events, conferences and more in the name of chocolate.

TASTERS TO TEST IN MODICA

• MPANATIGGHI: another Spanish influence on Sicilian cuisine comes
  in the shape of these sweet Italian empanadas that look like moon shaped
  mince pies; the brown filling that pokes out of the holes on the top is made
  from sweet essentials, such as chocolate, nuts, and spices, yet there’s one
  secret ingredient that makes these biscuits specifically “mpanatigghis”, and
  that’s minced beef; the meat taste isn’t so noticable, and aubergine is often
  used as a vegetarian alternative, but don’t let that put you off!

• NUCATOLI: slithering sicilian S-shaped biscuits filled with mediteranean
  deliciousness – Modican chocolate, sweet orange, dried fruits (usually figs),
  nuts, honey, and spices.
• CANNOLI: the delightful ricotta filled pastry dessert, may have been
  made famous outside of Italy by The Godfather, but its flavour is enough to
  make it stand on its own