This is a land where historic port towns induce cultural reverie, the turquoise Adriatic laps swathes of sand and pebble beaches, and the rugged mountainous interior challenges even the hardiest adventure sports enthusiasts. Inside a week, it’s quite possible to explore several regions, making stops at gorgeous Kotor and capital Podgorica en route.
Bay of Kotor
Seeing and Doing
With its mountainous backdrop, beautiful blue waters and medieval and Venetian-era settlements, this butterfly-shaped bay is the jewel in the Montenegrin crown (somewhere to stay: Palazzo Drusko). The walled town of Kotor itself is a wonder of cobbled streets and squares, churches and a lovely museum bearing proud testimony to the region’s seafaring prowess.
But Kotor can get crowded. Instead stay in nearby Dobrota, where the 18th-century Palazzo Radomiri offers 10 rooms furnished with antiques, a leafy garden restaurant, and a stone pier for swimming in the bay.
Take a tour around the bay with 360 Monte Gray Line Montenegro Tours, where expert local guides lead you through Kotor’s old town, hidden coves, and dramatic mountain passes—whether by boat, hike, or private excursion—for an adventure that captures the soul of Montenegro.
Cable car up to Lovčen National Park for the day!
Exploring Kotor Bay aboard a yacht is an unforgettable experience. If you’re staying at Regent Porto Montenegro, they can arrange a one-day private charter (Bavaria 46 sailboat) with a skipper, who’ll tell you some local history and let you try your hands on the ropes. Alternatively, tour the bay by stand-up paddle board (SUP). Montenegro+ do a Sunset SUP trip, ending at dusk. They also do sea kayaking – their Blue Cave trip takes you along Luštica’s south coast to visit the Blue Cave, with time for snorkelling and cliff jumping.
Eating and Drinking
In a cobbled alley within Kotor’s medieval walls, Old Winery is an unpretentious wine bar that offers wines from lesser-known boutique wineries, accompanied by platters of local prsut (prosciutto) and cheese. Try the Castel Savina Merlot or the dense red Bogojevic Bogdan Barrique. They offer “tastings” and can arrange visits to vineyards. It gets busy at weekends, with live jazz and blues occasionally (Stari Grad, Kotor; 00382 68 517 417).
Babi Resto Bar & Wine is a cozy bistro vibe meets a carefully curated wine list, making it the kind of place locals slip into for authentic flavors far from the yacht-set gloss of Porto Montenegro.
Resto Bar Taraca in Kotor sits just outside the North Gate by the peaceful Škurda River, blending local charm with global fare—think juicy burgers, vegan bowls, fresh juices, and inventive fusion dishes.
What makes it unique? They clearly label vegan options, serve as one of the few reliable plant-friendly spots in town, and balance crowd-pleasing comfort food with creative surprises.
Farther around the bay, the baroque town of Perast is the site of a famous victory against the Ottomans (somewhere to stay: Hotel Conte), the tiny town of Perast is one of the jewels in Montenegro’s crown.
Armonia in Perast is a waterside Mediterranean / Montenegrin restaurant known for its serene bay-front setting and dishes made with fresh local ingredients. It offers a meatless section (including vegan-friendly pasta dishes) for more flexible eating styles. Book ahead for seafront table.
Bistro & Bar Kantina65 in Herceg Novi is a laid-back modern bistro serving a mix of local and international fare—from gourmet burgers and pizzas to vegetarian and vegan options—all in a warm, relaxed atmosphere.
Sweet treats can be found at La Parisienne, including Burek!
Where to Stay
Across the single narrow road from the Heritage Grand hotel, a restored 17th-century Venetian palazzo, waterfront restaurants are aplenty (Armonia being one of them). From here it is possible to make a very special pilgrimage by boat to the island known as Our Lady of the Rocks: truly a place to inspire princely reflection and a sense of wellbeing.
To escape the summer heat, head into the mountains. At an altitude of 950m, Kolašin offers fresh air and a slower pace of life. It sits just outside Biogradska Gora National Park where marked hiking paths lead through meadows and forests, past glacial lakes and up into the wild rocky peaks, some over 2,000m. In Kolašin, stay at the modern Alpine-style Bianca Resort & Spa, with exposed pinewood interiors and a spa with a 25-metre indoor pool.
Budva
The Budva Riviera offers blissful sandy beaches and pebbly coves. At its heart lies the old town of Budva, founded by the Ancient Greeks and later fortified by the Venetians, aspectacular city with medieval walls, impressive arches and a pedigree dating back to the ancient Greeks. Although a holiday hotspot in the summer, Budva and the surrounding coastline (the Budva Riviera) is also home to a series of sheltered coves and pretty sand and pebble beaches. The pinewood fragrances and surprisingly secluded sunspots of the island of Sveti Nikola can be reached by taxi-boat from Budva. You might stay at Hotel Splendid in Bečići.
Moving inland, you’ll discover the soaring mountains after which the country is known. It was the Venetians who first coined the name Montenegro, literally “black mountain”. Montenegrins themselves call it Crna Gora, which translates to the same. Here you’ll find sleepy rural villages, where locals keep sheep and make their own cheeses, and the national parks of Biogradska Gora and Durmitor, much loved by hikers. And if you visit in winter, you can even try skiing. It is this seductive combination of the jazzy coast and time-forgotten mountains that make Montenegro so special.
An hour’s drive from Budva is Ribarsko Selo, Lustica, an informal eatery overlooking an isolated emerald bay has no written menu (fishermen deliver daily at 11am), but favourites include shrimp carpaccio; pasta with mussels in garlic and herbs; wild sea bream; and monkfish in truffle sauce. Tables are on a stone terrace shaded by white awnings, with steps leading down to a waterside wooden deck with sun beds and sea kayaks for guests’ use. You can arrive by boat from Porto Montenegro marina, or drive along a rough country road from Radovici (00382 69 149 119; ribarskoselo.com)
Lake Skadar
Just south of Podgorica (where on Thursday the royal couple will join the celebration of 10 years of Montenegrin independence) lies Lake Skadar, a lovely expanse of mountain-fringed water that stretches around into Albania. Here you can find the wild ruggedness and pristine nature for which Montenegro is also prized; here, too, thanks to enterprising British couple Ben and Emma Heywood, you can explore by foot, bike and kayak and enjoy wild swims in crystal-clear waters (something that may appeal more to the Prince’s boys or, indeed, before too long, his grandchildren). When the day is done, you can unwind over a glass of the excellent locally produced vranac red wine. Stari Most next to the famous old bridge that do a delicious 3 course meal!
Mala Rijeka viaduct
When this vast railway viaduct was built in the Seventies, it was hailed as the tallest in Europe and was one of the many star attractions on a stretch of track linking the Montenegrin port of Bar with Belgrade. The line is undoubtedly a great feat of engineering (in addition to the viaduct there are 435 bridges and 254 tunnels), and along the way passengers are treated to views of stupendous gorges and caverns and dramatic peaks. Tito used to travel to Bar in his own specially crafted Blue Train, his favoured place for meeting foreign dignitaries and heads of state, including Prince Charles’s mother. While not as grand, public trains still ply the scenic route.
